
Whale season came early this year to Hawaii Island, with the first sightings of the long-distance vacationing leviathans in mid-October, about a month earlier than usual.
Every year humpback whales – one of the largest mammals on the planet – make the trip from their summer feeding grounds in Alaska to the boudoirs and birthing bays of Hawaii. One of the best places to see the babies, pregnant moms and their hopeful suitors, say oceanographers, is just offshore of Hawaii Island.
“Though the whales can be seen from any of the major Hawaiian islands,
the leeward coast of the Big Island, particularly North and South
Kohala, provides protected waters where whales are likely to be spotted
during the 3-month high season, January to March,” says Justin
Viezbicke, Hawaii Island coordinator for the “Hawaiian Islands Humpback
Whale National Marine Sanctuary.
For optimal viewing, find a spot “near the shoreline and slightly above sea level,†said National Marine Sanctuary Co-manager Jeff Walters in the article. He noted that the whales “seem to be more active in the morning, and their activity will be easier to see on days with less wind.â€
Want to help count this year’s population of humpbacks in Hawaii waters?
A census will be taken on dates in Jan., Feb, and March. To take part, call
1-888-55-Whale (1-888-559-4253).

Photo courtesy Hawaiian Walkways by Linda Woodard - Guide Joe on the Kona Cloud Forest Botanical Walk
When you come to Hawaii Island, chances are you’ll have limited time but unlimited desire to make the most of your outdoor experience by doing exactly what you want to do.
Maybe you want to spend most of your time in the ocean. Or in the rainforest. Or on the planet’s newest lava plains. Or maybe you want to mix it up with some amazing combination of the above.
No problem.
A number of Big Island tour operators are happy to accommodate your wishes by designing outings tailored to what you want to see and do. All you have to do is contact them and ask!
Snorkel from shore or board an excursion boat for a dive cruise. The Big Island’s waters are teaming with brightly colored tropical fish. Marine mammals are protected and should not be approached by boat or swimmers. However, no one has told the dolphins and turtles and it’s perfectly all right if these sometimes-curious creatures decide to approach you.
Most of the best snorkeling is on the island’s west side. Fish tend to hold court near rocks and reef, but when you explore there make sure you don’t venture too close to breaking waves that will put you between a rock and a hard place. Ask locals about conditions and places to avoid, and note that only some beaches have lifeguards.
East Side
West Side
Dive shops on the Big Island offer rentals for offshore scuba diving into Hawaii’s clear waters. Explore sea caves or enjoy the coral belt that surrounds the island with all the colorful sea life that dwells there. Introductory “resort courses” will qualifiy you for an introductory scuba dive in hours. You might get hooked and sign up for a certification course.
As with snorkeling, most of the best places for divers are on the west side of the island between South Kona and North Kohala. It’s normally best to dive with a local guide who can read changing weather and knows the best spots for shore and boat dives.
East Side
West Side
Surfing in Hawaii used to be a sport reserved only for the alii (royalty). Fortunately, that is no longer true. Whether you’re already expert at shredding waves or never been on a board, there are lots of surfing opportunities around Hawaii Island. You can take your own board or a rented one to breaks off the beaten path, or sign up with an instructor at popular spots.
There are great places to catch waves around Hawaii Island, but most of them are better suited to experienced surfers. Here’s a short list of more user-friendly breaks. But don’t get in over your head—ask a local or check in with a surf shop for advice about conditions before paddling out. And please, always surf with aloha.
East Side
West Side
We have white sand beaches of course, but also black sand and a beach with green sand made from olivine crystals. Some of our beaches are finely manicured and packed with activities, backed by world-class resorts. Others are beautifully wild and remote.
Every beach in Hawaii is open to the public, and Big Island state and county beach parks are highly rated by national travel magazines like Conde Nast, Travel & Leisure and “Dr. Beach,” Stephen Leatherman from the University of Maryland.
So come dive in!
About 12 miles north of Hilo you’ll find this jungle garden by the ocean. A nearby stream is lined with smooth lava rocks, and a waterfall. Gorgeous on a sunny day and a unique tropical experience when its raining!
A favorite with local residents, this small, shallow, sand-bottomed ocean pool is one of the safest swimming areas along the Hilo coast, with tidepools and inlets, so there are lots of families and small kids. Although there’s no actual beach, this park is a perfect place to play, picnic and people-watch, with pavilions, restrooms and lovely views of Hilo Bay.
The shallow bay fronting Richardson Ocean Center is the most popular snorkeling site on the east side of the island. Surfers and body boarders ride the break next to the southern point of the bay. The center features a marine life display, and the beach park has picnic pavilions, restrooms, parking and showers.
Experienced hikers might try the 4-mile coastal trek to this amazing beach containing olivine crystals from the cinder cone behind. But be aware: there are no facilities or water (or shade) available. And be very cautious if you venture into the ocean. Only go in if the water is calm and you are a good swimmer. During high surf, there is a strong rip current. Also, be sure to lock your car and take valuables with you; the rather remote parking lot is unattended.
This beautiful black-sand beach is a great place to see green sea turtles close to shore. If you jump in the water, you’ll want to stay close to shore too to avoid sometimes tricky currents. The adjacent campground and pavilion are popular with local families and fishermen, though this exposed grassy area can be blustery.
This normally calm little white sand beach contrasts with its dramatic backdrop: the imposing rock walls of Puukohola Heiau, one of the most historic temples in Hawaiian history. The mana (spiritual power) of this place notwithstanding, it’s a great spot for kids to splash in the shallow water, and for snorkeling, fishing, picnicking and camping.
This stretch of beach next to the Waikoloa Beach Marriott is the place for active ocean lovers to jump in and play. Rentalable toys include glass bottom boats, kayaks, hydro bikes and boogie boards. You can get set up to snorkel, scuba dive or windsurf. Or take a sunset sail or a seasonal whale watching tour. There is ample parking, along with picnic facilities and restrooms. An ancient fishpond hugging the beach was a major aquaculture resource in pre-Western-contact Hawaii. Historical signage informs visitors about the cultural importance of the area.
On the Big Island’s spectacular Kohala coast, Hapuna’s white sands have earned it a reputation as one of Hawaii’s finest beaches, being consistently rated on the numerous international Top Ten lists. The largest of our island’s white sand beaches, it offers consistently good conditions for swimming, body-boarding, sunbathing, strolling and snorkeling. Located adjacent to the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel, there is ample parking, along with food vendors, picnic areas, restrooms and showers.
This small, well-manicured beach park near the Fairmont Orchid Hawaii, has parking, restrooms, showers and barbecue grills. Although it’s not a sandy beach, it’s a beautiful place to explore tidepools, look for shells and go snorkeling. A short walk away is the extraordinary Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve, where hundreds of ancient carvings in the lava rock open a window into yesterday.
Outrigger canoes were the first boats to come ashore in Hawaii, and they are still commonly used for sport and recreation. A number of outrigger excursions around the island offer you the chance to paddle in a six-person canoe, cruising the coast and riding a wave into shore.
Paddle at your own pace along the shores in Hilo Bay or the numerous coves that dot the Kohala Coast. You can rent a kayak or canoe and head off on your own, or take lessons and a guided tour with someone who knows the best views along the coast.
The sight of a 40-ton humpback whale leaping out of the water and pirouetting like a ballet dancer, apparently just for fun, is one of those things that gives you a whole new perspective on our little blue planet. Likewise when you dive beneath the sea and hear the squeals of a whale that might be a mile away but sounds as though she is about to appear before your eyes. The humpbacks migrate to Hawaii waters every winter (usually from about November through April) to give birth and mate, and the sight of these amazing animals—the largest mammals on Earth—never gets old. Other whale species—pilot, sperm, false killer, orcas, melon headed, dolphins—live in Hawaiian waters year-round, which is why you can have a whale watch tour any time of year with outfits like Captain Dan McSweeney’s Whale Watch.
The Hawaiian word for the humpback is “kohola.” The best way to get up close and personal (within the limits of federal laws that protect this endangered species) is to take a whale-watching cruise out of Kailua-Kona.
From mid-November through May, the great humpback whales make their annual visit to Hawaii’s Big Island. Measuring an average of 45 feet, and weighing about a ton per foot, the sight of a breaching humpback whale from shore or just over the bow of your whale-watching boat will stay with you forever. Keep your camera handy; these gentle giants can take to the air at any moment.
Submarines, catamarans, other boats
Hawaii Island takes on a whole new perspective when you gaze upon it from the deck of a boat offshore. Bobbing on a catamaran while munching fruit and sipping a cold drink, still wet from snorkeling off the side—that also gives you a new perspective. And gazing out the big window of a tour submarine? Wow!
Sport fishing is big on the Big Island. Although we’re famous for marlin, fishermen also regularly hook mahimahi, ono and ahi. Most charter fishing boats put to sea from Honokohau Harbor outside Kailua-Kona. You can also fish from piers, jetties and shore, or along streams.
For the latest news on catches off the island of Hawaii, click here .